Shangri-La Springs: Haven for Health

Florida has at least 1,000 artesian springs and my new book, Florida's Healing Waters, documents twenty-two spas that were built adjacent to mineral springs during the Gilded Age. They range from places so popular that entire towns developed around the facilities, such as Green Cove and White Springs, to others so ephemeral that the only evidence they ever existed is in the travel literature of the time, such as Moncrief Spring near Jacksonville. It is also likely that many springs were used for therapeutic bathing by locals, but never commercially developed. And some facilities were enhanced with the addition of water from artesian wells, or "pseudo springs." 

Most of these spring-based spas tended to be in the northern part of Florida where there is a higher concentration of springs. A handful existed in Central Florida, but one of the few that was built in South Florida was the spa at Shangri-La Springs in Lee County. 

The spa originated when Harvie E. Heitman, a prolific businessman and early developer of Southwest Florida’s Lee County, and his brother built Bonita Springs’ Heitman Hotel in 1921 as a built as a place for potential real estate investors to stay. The town of Bonita Springs is said to be named for a sulphur spring on the hotel grounds (the town was previously known by the unremarkable name, Survey.) It is claimed that the spring was sacred to the Calusa Indians who lived in the area hundreds of years ago.

Heitman died in 1922 and the hotel endured several owners and multiple name changes until osteopath Dr. Charles Gnau bought the property in 1962. It was Gnau who saw the potential of the resort as a place of healing centered around the spring. Gnau believed the water of the spring “compared favorably” to the famed waters of the Baden-Baden Spring in Germany. He was ahead of his time, advocating for a holistic approach to health, including eating organic produce and exercising regularly. Gnau built a spring-fed pool with an Indian maiden statue to the property. The next owner, Dr. R.J. Cheatham renamed the resort the Shangri-La Hotel and developed it into an institute of hygiene.

Today the Shangri-La Springs resort is operated as a day spa, hotel, and restaurant, offering locally grown organic food and a variety of spa treatments including massage, reiki, saunas, reflexology, and aromatherapy.

Back to the Gardens

Last weekend I had book signing at Barnes and Noble in Sarasota so I decided to visit the new Everglades Wonder Gardens since I was relatively close to Bonita Springs. I've been doing graphic design work for the vintage roadside attraction's new operator, photographer John Brady, and I was eager to see the results of his labors. Brady, who specializes in large format black and white prints of natural Florida, could not bear to see this beloved attraction close its doors after over 70 years of operation. So he negotiated a lease with the property's owner, David Piper, and has been working hard to give the place a make-over.

I loved the Gardens on my previous visit in 2011 because it was a throwback to an earlier era. It oozed Old Florida charm without the slickness and polish of a corporate theme park.  Signs were painted by hand, a dusty museum with amazing taxidermy greeted visitors, and animals were just an arm's length away in their cages. Having a deep affection for all survivors of Florida's golden age of roadside attractions, I appreciated the fact that this place had endured. But I also wondered how it had survived as our contemporary understanding of animals' needs and habitats had made places like this obsolete. There was also a wildness to the park, like in a blink it could easily become wild again and be reabsorbed into the jungle that is the Everglades.

John Brady's vision of the park is more in keeping with contemporary values; while honoring the Garden's Old Florida roots and its history, he is taming and shaping the vegetation so the visitor can more easily appreciate the lush environment of this Bonita Springs gem. He's opening up narrow pathways and pruning back overgrown plants so that they can be properly viewed. Exotic fig and Kapok trees are revealed, and new plantings are changing the attraction from an animal park to a botanical garden. Much of the larger animals have been transferred to Gatorland in Orlando. After cleaning out the gator pit, the large alligators that inhabited it moved on to Orlando and were replaced by smaller, more lively gators that seemed to be in better proportion to the space. Brady also retained turtles, gopher tortoises, and the bright colorful flamingos. In addition, he created viewing areas around the flamingo pond allowing for better views of these amazing tropical birds. One bird enclosure remains for injured Ibis and seagulls, and a lone peacock wanders the grounds, occasionally letting out a loud call and making the whole place seem a bit wilder.

The gift shop and museum are in transition as well, as Brady has located his Everglades Gallery of photography near the front of the building. There is still kitschy taxidermy, and Brady has worked hard to maintain the character of the space rather than overpowering it. The museum has fewer artifacts, but it will offer Brady an opportunity to present programming like book talks and lectures. There are still some wonderfully bizarre artifacts throughout, and the hand-rendered signage left over from the park's earlier days are true pieces of folk art.

But outside is where Brady is making the most changes. Many of the animal enclosures have been removed and those that are more aesthetically pleasing have been re-purposed. The former panther pen is being transformed into a butterfly enclosure, soon to be one of the park's highlights. The section that once held deer and turkeys has been opened up to create an open area where outdoor events can take place. Brady's philosophy is to make Everglades Wonder Gardens a community resource for all of Southwest Florida to enjoy.

The soft opening of the park was the previous day, and despite the ongoing work, folks seem to be chomping at the bit to get inside and see the transformation. Brady is planning a grand opening in the fall when more of the work is completed and the weather is cooler. When I visited the gardens in 2011, I was concerned for the future of this unique Florida treasure, especially after becoming aware that owners had considered selling the property due to David Piper's illness. Thank goodness John Brady stepped forward; the attraction is in good hands, blossoming into a 21st century-friendly botanical garden, growing organically from its Old Florida roots.

Everglades Wonder Gardens Version 2.0: roadside classic to re-open soon

When I first visited Everglades Wonder Gardens, I was charmed and enthralled by this attraction that was seemingly untouched by time. Bypassed by a new alignment of US 41, the vintage park seemed like a relic from the era when mom and pop roadside attractions dotted the blue highways of the sunshine state. I even reached out to the Piper family who owned the park, to see if I could be of assistance in marketing this old Florida gem. So I was sad to hear earlier this year that David Piper had decided to close the park after nearly 80 years of operation.

A few weeks ago I heard from John Brady, a photographer who takes amazing large format nature photographs that I've often posted on my Old Florida Facebook page. He has a space in southwest Florida for showing his work called Everglades Gallery. John called to tell me he was in negotiations with Bill Piper to lease Everglades Wonder Gardens in order to transform it to botanical gardens, with a museum and fine art gallery. His plan is to keep some of the smaller reptiles and flamingos but focus much of his energies on the beautiful tropical landscaping that exists throughout the park. He would also move his gallery into the space currently taken up by the gift shop.

I was thrilled to hear the Gardens would get this new lease on life and signed on to support John in any way I could. There are far too few places like this remaining, and I think the changes he has planned will honor the park's heritage while bringing it into alignment with 21st century values. Most of the animals have been sold off by the Pipers and Gatorland is taking the large alligators and crocodiles. John plans to have exhibit space for other artists and create an open area for outdoor concerts.

The iconic flamingos would remain • photo by John Brady

Brady plans to emphasize the mature tropical landscaping
found throughout the park • photo by John Brady

John Brady with his camera at the Gardens

Much of the wonderful museum will remain intact • photo by John Brady

Brady has new plans for the swinging bridge and alligator lagoon
photo by John Brady

Here is the press release John Brady issued:

Local Artist John Brady and family to operate the Everglades Wonder Gardens

Bonita Springs, FL (May 30, 2013) - Internationally-recognized local photographer John Brady and family will operate the Everglades Wonder Gardens in the Historic District of Bonita Springs.

The park will remain under the ownership of the Piper family but will be maintained and operated by the Brady family. The park will undergo some changes, putting it in line with Brady’s expertise and vision. The larger animals have been moved to other facilities throughout the country. David Piper placed each animal in the best possible facility. The old roadside attractions of the blue highways have been disappearing across the country, and the Brady family refuses to let the Everglades Wonder Gardens become another casualty of our changing America.

The Everglades Wonder Gardens have been a focal point of Bonita Springs since 1936 when Bill and Lester Piper created the facility to rehabilitate injured animals. The park has remained in the Piper family ever since and has become a place for visitors to enjoy the botanical gardens and see Florida’s wildlife in an intimate way, something that modern parks cannot provide. On April 21st 2013, the animal park was closed due to the health issues of David Piper, Lester Piper’s grandson.

The new EWG will focus on the botanical gardens, which has some of the most unique species of both native and exotic specimens from South America. The park will appeal to the many visitors that frequent Southwest Florida from all over the world, and will also have a focus on the local community and its residents. The history and heritage of the gardens is of great importance and Brady will continue to uphold its legacy through the operation of a museum in the main building. There will also be an art gallery featuring the work of Brady as well as some other prominent local artists. Brady’s images are from the swamps, creeks, and coastal areas of the Florida less traveled. The main building will also have gifts and souvenirs.

The new Everglades Wonder Gardens features a world-class botanical garden, native animal species, and Florida-themed fine art. This Florida roadside tradition since 1936 has recently undergone a change in management. Now operated by John Brady, Everglades Wonder Gardens is conveniently located in downtown Bonita Springs. Our address is:
 27180 Old 41 Road, Bonita Springs, Florida 34135

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Please contact John Brady 239-273-5813 or jbrady@timeandlight.com

The State of Springs

I headed out early this Saturday to visit some of the springs closest to my home. I don't usually do much in-state adventuring during the summer months because: 1.) it's too damn hot and 2.) the light is usually crappy. But I was itching to take some pictures and I was really tired of hearing politicians talking about abandoning "cumbersome" environmental regulations and I wanted to see people enjoying the environment they are so willing to forsake.

Wekiva Springs
The closest spring to my house is Wekiva Springs State Park and I hit I-4 early enough to get there in just about 30 minutes. Wekiva Springs has been a favorite recreational spot for Central Floridians for a very long time: it was originally know as Clay Springs and the Orange County Regional History Center has great images of Victorian Floridians trying to beat the heat there. Home to one of my favorite canoe runs, I hadn't visited the springs themselves in several years.

I got to the park 15 minutes after opening and found a small group of tri-atheletes swimming in the clear blue waters. Otherwise I beat the crowds that usually cover the lawn surrounding the bowl-like swimming area with blankets, coolers and lawn chairs. It was very peaceful briefly, but the folks were streaming in rapidly to make the most of the last Saturday of summer before the public schools started.

Orange County Regional History Center

Rock Springs

Next up was Rock Springs, which I am embarrassed to say, I had never visited before. The entrance to this spring was through Orange County's Kelly Park, and I didn't beat the crowd here. In fact, I'm going to go out on a limb and say it was the most crowded county park I've ever visited. But the facilities seemed to handle it well, and it was refreshing to see all sorts of folks enjoying the natural side of Florida.

Rock Springs was originally owned by planter from Georgia named Joseph Delk who moved there with a few slaves in the 1850s. After he passed away the land was sold to a lumber company and the property eventually made its way to the hands of Dr. Howard Kelly who donated the site to Orange County in 1926. On Saturday, the 248 acre park was a lively place as kids of all ages, (adults too), grabbed inner tubes and walked down to the rocky cliff where the water emerges from the aquifer. From there it's a 25 minute float to "lagoon" areas with sandy beaches. It's kind of like lazy river attraction at a water park, except mother nature provides the current. I can't wait to go back another time and try it out.

Green Springs

Soon I was soon back on the road cutting through Mt. Plymouth to get back to I-4 and cross the St. Johns River to get to Volusia County and my next two springs. Next up was the appropriately named Green Springs, a Volusia County Park, where 19th century visitors "took the waters" in hopes of healing their ailments in the sulphurous spring. Coming by steamboat to the area that was to be known as Enterprise on the north side of the River, guest stayed at the 100 room Brock Hotel, one of Florida's premier destination in the post Civil War era.

Today the hotel is long gone and the park surrounding the spring is only 3 years old. The emerald green waters of the spring don't have a boil like most typical Florida Springs, and I had little desire to "take the waters", yet it is a fascinating historical site and has beautiful, peaceful quality. The shady road along the river leading to the park is gorgeous.

Brock Hotel from the State Archives of Florida

Gemini Springs

My final stop was Gemini Springs, which is a 210 acre Volusia County Park. The spring itself is much smaller compared to the massive boil at Wekiva, but I was pleased to find it magnificently illuminated by serendipitous light rays. I also found evidence of the algae growth that I had seen in abundance further north at DeLeon and Silver Springs, and was not surprised. Both Wekiva and Rock Springs had signs created by the Florida Department of Environmental Protection with the following copy: "The clean, clear waters of Florida's springs provide a variety of recreational uses, including tubing, swimming, canoeing, and nature study. However, the health of our springs is threatened by human activities: Pollution from fertilizers, pesticides, animal wastes, septic tanks, gasoline, industrial wastes, and other contaminates pollute the water in our aquifer – our drinking water – and ultimately pollute the springs. Withdrawal of water from the aquifer for irrigation, drinking and industrial uses can reduce the flow of the spring."

Florida's first human inhabitants found sacredness in these waters. On the Saturday I visited these four Central Florida springs, they were all being enjoyed; I saw people having picnics, swimming, tubing, and exploring. I think these sacred waters are places that connect Floridians to the environment, and that the people of our state would support their preservation for future generations to enjoy.

A Wonderous glimpse into the past

For a short time it looked like it looked like my visit to Everglades Wonder Gardens might not happen, but a window opened up and I squeezed in a quick trip to this wonderful vintage roadside attraction last Saturday. It had been high on my list to visit because the future of the 75 year-old institution is uncertain, as the owners are exploring selling their property. Located on Old US 41 in downtown Bonita Spring's quaint little downtown, the property could be the cornerstone to that area's redevelopment. But for now, it is still a vintage time capsule, very much a portal to the past where roadside curiosities lured travelers off the road, well before theme parks were invented. And that is the charm of the place, it has personality and is an expression of one family's vision, not a team of Imagineers. Having visited Disney's Animal Kingdom just weeks previous, the contrast between the two parks was jarring, symbols of the changes in the last 70 years of tourism in Florida.

Brothers Bill and Lester Piper moved to Florida in the early 1930s and purchased the riverfront property that the Gardens sit on today. The siblings collected reptiles from the nearby Everglades and started a small roadside zoo on the Tamiami Trial in 1936. In the 1940s they added Florida Panthers to their growing collection of animals, which was supplemented (and still is today) by injured animals needing rehabilitation from all over SW Florida. The two most famous animals in their collection were Tom, a large Black Bear who starred in The Yearling, and Big Joe, a 15 ft. long North American Crocodile (he is still on display today in a glass case thanks to taxidermy.) Also worth noting is that at least one Florida Panther from Everglades Wonder Gardens was re-introduced into the wild by the National Park Service to help revitalize the ever diminishing numbers of Florida's native big cat. For a more extensive history on the Gardens, I recommend this website.

Tom, the Florida Black Bear, played Old Slewfoot in the filming of The Yearling in 1946. Here he is with EWG co-owner Bill Piper.
State Archives of Florida

It's hard to miss the gardens today, as beautifully painted signs bookend the property on Old 41. One enters the attraction through a tin-roof style cabin with a big covered porch out front. Doubling as the gift shop, a wide variety of taxidermy treasures are sprinkled amidst t-shirts and standard tourist baubles. After paying admission, one starts the tour of the Gardens in the fabulous museum, which is full of a wide array of preserved animals. A collection of old Florida memorabilia, animal bones, and bizarre relics, the museum is wonderful and macabre, in a Ripley's sort of way.

Tours are offered continuously, so a guide takes you from the museum to the tour where ever it is in the Gardens; however you are free to leave the tour and explore on your own at anytime. I liked this tradition of conveying information about the plants and animals vocally, versus having text panels throughout the park. While it was by no means crowded, a dedicated band followed our guide, hanging on his every word and closely examining each animal. The difference between the environments the animals live in here and the ones I recently witnessed at Animal Kingdom, is expressed very well in a hand a painted sign outside the entrance:
"We have early 1930's animal housing which enables a guest to get up close and personal to each exhibit." The sign continues "These enclosures are nestled among one of the most beautiful botanical gardens in the world. We feature predominantly animal wildlife, but we do have other species from Asia, Africa and South America. Visitors through the our Gardens are taken on a tour by experienced guides at no extra charge. During this tour enjoy the alligator feedings and otter shows which are a part of every tour."






The question is, does a 75 year-old roadside attraction still have a place in 21st century Florida? In a state that changes as quickly as Florida does, it is amazing that it has been able to survive as long as it has. On the day that I visited, I could easily imagine being a visitor in the early days of the Tamiami Trail, and getting a glimpse into Florida's roadside past was quite a treat.